One of those cables won't work with a BF-T1, because the speaker/mic socket is NOT for programming a BF-T1.Ī standard USB cable, such as the one packaged in the box with a BF-T1 radio, is for charging only.Īs soon as I can borrow a Windows PC, I will give it a go.
#Manual chirp programming manual
To find your unit ID, refer to the owner’s manual for your Garmin. The PIN is the last five digits of the unit ID from the last Garmin device you used to program the chirp. This prevents non-owners (finders) from reprogramming your chirp. However, it uses a micro-USB, and doesn't use those plugs. As the owner of the chirp, your device automatically creates a PIN-entry to program the chirp securely. It functions in a way that is comparable to the mic-plug/speaker-plug type of programming cable (as used for things such as the Puxing 777, etc). I have since discovered that the "bulge" in this cable contains a UART and supporting components, and the software programs the radio through it. It has a standard "large" USB-A connector on one end, and a micro-usb connector on the other.
This cable does not work on other radios.
#Manual chirp programming drivers
It comes with a software mini-cd which includes drivers etc. This is sold separately, and they stock it for not too much cash. The BF-T1 is programmed using a dedicated, single-purpose programming cable. I had a conversation with 's customer support people. So maybe if anyone has one they could have a look inside. The software starts by sending a bunch of characters and waiting to see anything back - if it gets no echo it says "Abnormal communication" and quits, whereas if it sees anything at all it sends a command and sits blindly forever waiting for a response.Īnyway the cables are cheap enough to just buy one but I'd rather know how it actually works. The high impedance pin on the radio doesn't respond, and the low impedance pin is enough to prevent the computer from seeing echo-back. I also tried the semi-standard trick of using a single data line via a diode/resistor and that also doesn't work.
#Manual chirp programming serial
Pretending these are 3.3v-level serial TX and RX doesn't work in either permutation nothing ever comes back from the radio. The radio's micro-USB port when nothing's connected holds one usb data pin at about 2.9v with lowish impedance, and the other at about 2.4v with highish impedance (ie a bit of resistance pulls it down a bit). I'm sure that's exactly what it is, but I tried briefly and couldn't make it work, so far at least. The programming cable uses a fake PL-2303 serial chip, so you'll also need the drivers off the same page.Īlso it looks as if there may be an attempt to get it added to CHIRP: It goes by another name, the "BF-9100A", and the software to program it can be found at the link below. Once that problem is solved it'll be great to have a little, >$20, 4oz, disposable, dual band rig. for the 130-174MHz, so a suitable replacement will need to be MacGyvered. Good news! With the programming cable you can program this little rig with 20 channels 400-520MHz and 130-174MHz.
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